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The Motherlode: Dance Hall Nights on Red River's Main Street

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Western musicians pose on a hay-bale stage in Red River in 2008, heirs to the town's dance-hall music tradition.

Every mountain town has a room where the night comes together — and in Red River, for generations, that room has been the Motherlode. At 406 Main Street, the saloon with the big stage, the big dance floor, the pool tables in the back, and the front porch for watching the evening go by has been the town's honky-tonk through every era of its modern life.

The Lode's recipe never changed: cold drinks, a stage, and room to dance. Night after night, bands have taken that stage — country, rock, blues, whatever the crowd came to hear — and the dance floor has filled with two-steppers, belly-rubbers, and visitors learning the steps for the first time. Regulars talk about decades of nights there; the mountain charm of the place, as one longtime visitor put it, is that almost nothing about it needs to change.

The Motherlode sits at the center of a music tradition that runs deeper than any single bar. Red River has long been a home away from home for working musicians — some historians have even claimed that without Red River, Austin would not have the thriving live-music scene it does today, and that some of Austin's most prominent musicians got their start in Red River's bars and dance halls. The town's festivals unofficially stretch back to the 1960s, and rumor has it that Neil Young once took the stage at the Motherlode itself.

That tradition is still going strong. The saloon remains a live-music room at the heart of town, part of the circuit of festivals and gatherings — from summer music and barbecue weekends to the winter crowds coming off the slopes — that keep Red River's calendar full. The package store next door and the porch out front make it a whole evening in one address.

Towns are remembered for their buildings, but they're loved for their rooms — the places where people gathered, danced, and told the stories they'd repeat for years. On Main Street in Red River, that room has a name, and it has had it for a very long time: the Motherlode.

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